It was back to the same hotel again and the same four walls. Suzie only had one full day left before going back and sure enough I was at work for most of the day.
As luck had it though the job was postponed until the following day, so we headed out for food, accompanied by Chodu, to the local Krishna restaurant. We had a lovely dish there called Masala Dosa, a South Indian dish which is a like a cross between a pancake and a taco and is a foot long - should have got a picture. In the middle is a stuffed potato mix of sorts with spices added too of course. This was the third time I'd been there and it is often spent with Chodu trying to help with our order and bickering with the staff
Suzie spent a lot of the next day in the room and took full advantage of the in room dining. Although that is a chore in itself. Her attempts at ordering Spaghetti al a Pomodoro (essentially just a pasta & sauce) were not without struggle, it took several visits from several members of staff and a few phonecalls in between before they finally managed to produce the food. The staff at the hotel are friendly and helpful, sometimes too helpful, but their english is awful. My Hindi is obviously rubbish but, in India English is one of the first languages they are taught, sometimes even before Hindi. I wonder how they are taught though, as I cant understand their english with the indian accent and they cant understand me, no matter how hard we are both trying. The Spaghetti al a Pomodoro wasn't too good either, according to Suzie they doused it in garlic.
This is another thing I have discovered about Mumbai at least, they like things well flavoured and with sauce, or gravy as they call it. If you order a dish in a restaurant that you know is not going to have sauce they will warn you that it is dry and would you like gravy. I was under the impression before I arrived here that we in Britain like our food covered in gravy and traditionally in India they like it dry. Not one restaurant have I seen that so far where they have it dry. Go figure?
Thursday gloomily came and so it was that I bode farewell to Suzie. I was hoping I could spend some time with her at the airport and see her off but we quickly found out that as soon as you drop off from the car at the entrance to departures they wont let anybody in who isn't a passenger, I guess because of tightened security since the bombings. So our parting was brief. I sulked in the back of the car on the way back from the airport and with a free day at hand I was somewhat at a loose end and with no real plans. There is always a visit to a temple, . . . maybe not.
I had a couple of jobs the following day and some returning clients, Lolita & Amitab who bicker with each other like a married couple. They very kindly bought me a scented candle for the suite. All very feminine I'm sure you're thinking. All I can say is, if you smelt the garlic coming through the air conditioning at lunchtime you'd know why I need it, it is quite overpowering.
Although lacking in enthusiasm I decided to take a day out on Sunday. I still hadn't visited Elephanta Island and the old temples in the caves so thought that would be a good trip. Chodu of course offered to be my guide and warned me not to buy any guide books or ask for a guide, he had been there many times and he knew all about it so it was a waste of money. Yes, well, whatever he says. We would have to take a slow ferry out to the Island from the Gateway of India in South Mumbai. This of course included an hours journey to the port, in what was surely the scariest taxi ride I have been in so far. I think maybe I prefer the traffic of a weekday to the quieter streets of a Sunday morning. When I say quiet streets it is of course still relatively busy.
One thing I have noticed since being here is that people in India queue in very much the same way as they drive. Although Indians consider themselves very laid back to the point of lying down they still seem keen to push in as if they are in a hurry to get somehwere, it's somewhat of a paradox. If they are so comfortable about things running late and are not pushed for time, what benefit does it have to push a few places in a line of traffic or in a shop?
The ferry ride to Elephanta Island was quite a disappointment. The journey itself was pleasant a nice slow smooth run, but the scenery wasn't quite the sun-filled horizons of the sea I was hoping for. The sun was there but so it seemed were lots of oil plants and oil tankers slowly chugging along and across our path. All I saw were small smoking platforms littered across the water and tankers shipping between them. It made the whole event of turning up at the Island a bit of an anticlimax. I was almost in fear that the Island itself was an oil plant. I still think one part of it might be. Elephanta though was quite pleasant. A pathway lead into the shore where little stalls and sellers offered there goods of food and souvenirs. I was then confronted by an old lady who knew the business of tourism very well. So far when I have been taking photos of people I have been the one to ask for the picture then took it upon myself to offer them some rupees if required. This lady was obviously a professional and instantly asked me to take a photo of her in return for a dollar. She knew exactly what she was doing. She even had a pot sitting on top of her head for full effect. I wouldn't be surprised if it was glued on. I still happily obliged as it was fairly amusing. We strolled on and up the hill trying to avoid getting into a sale with a souvenir seller and snapping away at the odd monkey that was hanging around.
By the time we were at the top both Chodu and I were dripping with sweat and we weren't the only ones. The heat of the day was incredible, it had to be hitting forty degrees and I was quickly going through my ration of water. We had to go through a ticketing both at the top which had the same principals as the Chhatrapati Shivaji Museum, 10 rupees for an indian and 250 rupees for all foreigners. I asked Chodu if he could tell them I was Indian, that I was born here even though I was white and didn't speak Hindi, we both thought it would was funny but thought against trying it out.
The temple caves themselves were amazing. As it turned out Chodu knew very little other than the caves were old, a good guide might have been handy. The caves contain reliefs of the god Shiva that date back to the Gupta empire 250 AD. (got that from wikipedia so could be wrong).
It is not as impressive to see outside as the Petra caves in Jordan but they are still impressive to see inside. It was pleasant enough to spend an hour or two there strolling around taking snaps and watching the monkeys causing trouble, stealing food and peoples water.
The heat of the day was too much though and I headed back to the hotel. This included what was in fact the scariest cab journey of the day, I take back what I said earlier. Hopefully the next ride in the cab will be a little slower.
When I returned to the hotel I challenged chodu to a game of Carrom, of which I had bought a board a few days ago for 300 rupees, not bad considering they cost £45 in england if you want one. I had played this game in the past with an old flat mate who had also got one from India. It is a simple game really, you basically have to flick draught counters into four corner pockets then end with the final jack counter at the end. I say simple, you actually have to use a striker draught to hit the others so there is a skill to the flicking I guess. I managed to win three games in a row, yet at a very suspect play by Chodu who I'm sure let me win. I'll try to believe it's beginners luck.